‘Every Cook Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.